Hidden amidst a sugarcane field, a makeshift shelter crafted from bamboo and leaf-thatch provides an unlikely refuge for 23-year-old Sanjay and eight others who escaped conscription in Myanmar.
Fleeing across the border to Thailand’s Mae Sot, they now reside as fugitives on the western fringes of the country. Their humble abode, shared with ducks, chickens, and goats, offers sparse sustenance of rice and vegetables.
Despite the meager provisions, Sanjay finds solace in the freedom from fear that eluded him back home. Separated only by a narrow, muddy river, Thailand beckons as a sanctuary from the turmoil of Myanmar’s conflict-ridden lands.
Sheltering in Mae Sot: Tales of Resistance and Survival
Since the military coup in 2021, tens of thousands have fled Myanmar, seeking refuge in the Thai border town of Mae Sot.
Among the recent arrivals are young men evading national conscription imposed by Myanmar’s military regime in February, targeting men aged 18 to 35.
Faced with widespread opposition to military rule among the younger generation, the conscription law has sparked a mass exodus.
Over time, Mae Sot has evolved into a precarious haven for fleeing Burmese nationals. It carries echoes of Cold War-era Berlin or the tension-filled atmosphere of Casablanca from the iconic film.
The town teems with exiles, plotting resistance, awaiting asylum opportunities, haunted by the specter of spies and informants, and enveloped in a perpetual state of apprehension.
“I used to be reckless,” Sanjay reflects. “I lived life on my own terms, ignoring my mother’s advice, and staying indifferent to politics.”
However, his perspective shifted drastically after the coup when his father was incarcerated by the military for aiding the resistance. Despite never contemplating leaving his homeland before, Sanjay’s resolve solidified upon receiving his conscription notice.
“I couldn’t fathom fighting for them against fellow Burmese,” he asserts firmly.
On the Battlefield: Myanmar’s Military Faces Setbacks
In the town of Myawaddy, situated across the river from Mae Sot, the Burmese military recently faced yet another significant setback.
Following the overrun of their bases by a coalition of insurgents, hundreds of troops were forced to surrender. Attempts to send reinforcements to reclaim the town resulted in ambushes and being entangled in the dense forests west of Myawaddy.
These defeats mark a pattern of losses for the military in various regions, including Shan and Kachin States to the north, and Rakhine State to the west.
Consequently, the army finds itself grappling with a severe shortage of recruits, with casualties and desertions numbering in the thousands.
Sanjay, determined not to become one of the casualties, sought refuge with his mother’s assistance. Together, they commenced on a perilous journey, handling the challenging terrain to reach the safety of the border.
Armed with his Myanmar ID card, he secured a two-week pass to enter Thailand.
Although the pass has expired, he counts himself lucky to have an uncle residing in Mae Sot who lends him support.
Despite the risks of arrest and deportation every time he ventures into Mae Sot, he remains undeterred. For him, there are no regrets.
Seeking Refuge: Life in Mae Sot
Mae Sot has transformed into a maze of safehouses, with entire streets accommodating primarily undocumented refugees. Some of these safehouses are well-established dormitories, supported by foreign aid organizations.
Others are improvised, utilizing empty shophouses in the main market, partitioned internally with plywood and plastic tarpaulins to create rooms just spacious enough for a family to lie down.
In one of the more organized safehouses, a family of five arrived just a week prior, carrying only a few clothes, blankets, and their five-year-old son’s cherished toy car.
The eldest son, aged 19, prompted the family’s decision to flee their home near Yangon upon receiving his military conscription papers.
“I couldn’t bear the thought of my son being forced to fight against other young men,” explained his father.
They recounted a grueling 15-day journey from Yangon, traversing the hills of Karen State and then crossing the river into Thailand under the cover of night. The bribes and fees they had to pay exhausted all their savings.
That very morning, the father, a former railway worker, had been scouring for job opportunities. Wages in Mae Sot are often meager, yet he returned empty-handed, unable to secure any employment.
For those who have escaped Myanmar, the town serves as both a refuge and a confinement.
Amidst Uncertainty: Refugees in Mae Sot Seek Shelter Amidst Challenges
Thailand has not ratified the United Nations Convention and Protocol on Refugees and does not provide official protection to those escaping the conflict in Myanmar. Many of the refugees lack proper documentation.
While Thai authorities generally tolerate the influx of refugees, they are restricted to Mae Sot and face challenges such as financial burdens and the risk of detention.
The police often demand monthly fees for cards that are meant to prevent detainment at checkpoints, but many refugees are still detained and extorted for larger sums.
Nay Chi Win, the coordinator of Joy House, a community center supporting refugees, highlights the mental health struggles among refugees, including feelings of uselessness and depression due to their stateless status and inability to pursue education or support their families.
Despite these challenges, some refugees, like Sanjay, choose to return to Myanmar to join the resistance. Others, with technical skills, contribute to drone squads or engage in fundraising efforts abroad.
As the conflict intensifies, Thailand acknowledges the possibility of accommodating more refugees. Increased fighting near Myawaddy has led to a more visible Thai military presence in Mae Sot.
Despite the looming threat of conflict, newly arrived refugees in Mae Sot express relief, though concerns remain about education and livelihood opportunities for their families.
However, they express gratitude for having escaped Myanmar and find solace in their newfound safety.
